Disclaimer-- Volunteers with United Mountain Defense are not scientists and don't claim responsibility for the use of the following data as it pertains to the health of thru hikers from drinking water along the Cumberland Trail. Conventional backpacking water filters don't remove heavy metals. Boiling water doesn't remove heavy metals and actually concentrates them in the remaining water.
This area is completely beautiful and I think that a thru hiker would have a marvelous time hiking here but I do want people to be safe in their choice of drinking water and surprisingly we actually found water that I would consider safer water (after filtering).
On Feb 19-20, 2011 four volunteers with United Mountain Defense hiked 9.8 miles from Smoky Creek to the New River. We tested water along the trail in an effort to help determine which of these waterways would be the least impacted by all of the historical and current mining along the trail. This is a big project as the trail is expected to be 300 miles long at its completion and run from Cumberland Gap to Chattanooga, TN, much of it traveling through historically coal mined areas where water quality has been impacted which could have a health impact on thru hikers if they drank it repeatedly. Fortunately we did find waterways, creeks, and springs that didn't appear to have been impacted by coal mining and these are listed below.
The conductivity data that we collected was able to help us see how the coal industry has impacted these waterways. These conductivity measurements were taken by a YSI digital water monitor in the measurement of microsiemens per centimeter and show the amount of dissolved metals that exist in these waterways. This measurement doesn't show the types of metals present but historically both iron and manganese along with other metals are usually present where coal is mined.
I would suggest that thru hikers drink water from the Cave Branch watershed upstream of impacts from the logging industry that were occurring during our visit on Feb 19-20, 2011. Also the water coming from the trail section just before Bowling Town Road seemed to be nice, look for a big tree with a hole in it next to the trail and there is a nice spring about 20 feet off of the trail at this point.
I would avoid drinking water from the beaver ponds and the stream between the beaver ponds. These ponds are most likely old sediment ponds for a coal strip mine and the stream between them is running down off of old mine tailings up on Lawson Mountain, an old Mountain Top Removal Coal mine site that the trail travels over.
Lick Creek is still relatively close to Lawson Mountain's coal mine and recent clear cut logging in the area.
There was a small spring (trail left) near the washed out road where the water felt oily though there wasn't a visible oily film on the water.
Please don't drink water from the New River or Smoky Creek as both of these waterways catch a lot of runoff from nearby coal mines and the two coal prep plants that dump daily amounts of pollution into the upstream stretches of the New River.
A general rule of thumb is not to drink water with a conductivity over 50 microsiemens per centimeter but as you can see one of the beaver ponds showed up as 36 microsiemens (so don't drink it). I would say to stick with measurements around 30 microsiemens per centimeter and you should be okay, or from springs that don't have a coal mine located upstream or overhead. Conventional backpacking water filters don't remove heavy metals. Boiling water doesn't remove heavy metals and actually concentrates them in the remaining water.
Cave Branch at Smoky Creek-- water appears safer
N 36 14.681
W -84 24.623
8 degrees C temp
32.4 conductivity
8.06 pH
Smoky Creek-- don't drink water
N 36 14.690
W -84 24.605
9.1 degrees C temp
217 conductivity
7.52 pH
Cavebranch-- water appears safer
N 36 15.103
W -84 25.232
7.6 degrees C temp
30.7 conductivity
7.74 pH
Big tree with hole-- water appears safer
N 36 16.483
W -84 25.789
6.6 degrees C temp
38.1 conductivity
8.27 pH
Just before Bowling Town Road-- water appears safer
N 36 16.64
W -84 25.67
7.4 degrees C temp
25.5 conductivity
7.9 pH
Bowling Town Road-- don't drink water
N 36 16.666
W -84 25.669
7.7 degrees C temp
80.2 conductivity
7.41 pH
Beaver Pond-- don't drink water
N 36 16.682
W -84 25.421
9.1 degrees C temp
64.1 conductivity
7.4 pH
Stream between Beaver Pond-- don't drink water
N 36.16.681
W -84 25.412
6.4 degrees C temp
107.7 conductivity
8 pH
Beaver Pond #2-- don't drink water
N 36 16.744
W -84 25.371
7.2 degrees C temp
35.5 conductivity
7.52 pH
Big Landslide on Trail
N 36 16.705
W -84 25.341
Trailcrossing Feeder to Lick Creek-- don't drink water
N 36 17 409
W -84 24.242
6.6 degrees C temp
47.6 conductivity
8.07 pH
Lick Creek-- don't drink water
N 36 17.441
W -84 24.240
8.3 degrees C temp
65.8 conductivity
7.67 pH
Gas Well Trail Left-- drilled, capped and abandoned
N 36 17.398
W -84 24.190
Lick Creek-- don't drink water
N 36 17.411
W -84 23.992
7 degrees C temp
55.2 conductivity
7.74 pH
N 36 17.353-- water appears safer
W -84 23.899
6.8 degrees C temp
29.6 conductivity
7.74 pH
Washed Out Road/ trail Lick Creek has washed out culvert
N 36 17.368
W -84 23.784
Sprig Trail Left (near washed out road)-- oily feel to water-- unsure of safety
N 36 17.366
W -84 23.767
8.1 degrees C temp
20.7 conductivity
7.65 pH
N 36 17.403-- water appears safer
W -84 23.598
7 degrees C temp
31.3 conductivity
7.6 pH
N 36 17.481-- water appears safer
W -84 23.219
6.5 degrees C temp
26.4 conductivity
7.69 pH
N 36 17.861-- water appears safer
W -84 23.236
8.3 degrees C temp
34.8 conductivity
7.6 pH
N 36 17.937-- water appears safer
W -84 23.335
6.8 degrees C temp
25.8 conductivity
7.77 pH
N 36 18.092-- don't drink water
W -84 23.380
6.4 degrees C temp
50.2 conductivity
7.48 pH
New River-- don't drink water
N 36 18.131
W -84 23.258
9.9 degrees C temp
246.4 conductivity
7.37 pH
Section 2:
LAWSON MOUNTAIN
9.8 Miles
Overview
From its northern terminus on Norma Road, the trail crosses the New River and ascends 1,300 feet in just over 3 miles to reach the top of Lawson Mountain. A scenic traverse of the ridge is followed by a 800-foot descent to Bowling Branch. A pleasant, fairly level stroll precedes the second major climb of the Section--an ascent of nearly 900 feet to a rocky spine dividing two major watersheds. After another level traverse, the trail descends toward remote Cave Branch, then works its way southeast to the Smoky Creek Road trailhead. Highlights of this section include a vast hardwood forest affording great fall colors; stands of large, healthy hemlocks; countless tumbling creeks (in season); far-reaching views from Lawson Mountain; walking in the presence of wild elk; and, as on Section 3, splendid isolation.
Road Approaches and Parking
The trailhead for the northern terminus of this section is on Norma Road in Scott County. To reach this location from I-75, take Exit 141, TN-63, and go west towards Huntsville. Cross into Scott County and travel a total of 11.2 miles to Norma Road. Norma Road begins on the left, directly across from the closed Victory Lane Market & Deli (a former Shell service station). A landmark on the left (south) side of TN-63 is a large sign for Rector's Saw Shop. Follow Norma Road 7.8 miles south past the village of Norma to the Cumberland Trail crossing. Note the wooden steps and “Cumberland Trail” signs on both sides of the road. Parking space for several vehicles is the dirt pull-off area on the west side of the road near the trail crossing. In addition to this parking area, a private home owner will allow parking on his property. The owner's residence is a brown wooden two-story house with two ponds, also located on the west side of Norma Road just north of the dirt pull-off area. To contact the home owner about parking (required), please call Miss Linda Ward at 423-663-9191.
To reach the Norma Road trailhead from Oak Ridge, follow TN-62 to its intersection with TN-116. Turn right and proceed northeast past Brushy Mountain State Prison, Moore's Camp, and Rosedale to an intersection near Stainville--a total of 16.0 miles. Here, at a "T" intersection with no road signs, TN-116 changes direction dramatically and heads southeast toward Laurel Grove and Walden Ridge. Do not follow it! Instead, turn left onto gravel New River Road and proceed north along the New River. At 2.9 miles New River Road comes to a "T" intersection; go left. Proceed a total of 8.8 miles on New River Road to Smoky Junction--the confluence of Smoky Creek and New River. The most important landmark in Smoky Junction is Hembree's Grocery, on the left. New River Road now becomes Norma Road and is somewhat improved. Continue north on Norma Road 2.2 miles from Hembree's to the Cumberland Trail crossing. Note the wooden steps and "Cumberland Trail" signs on both sides of the road.
The trailhead for the southern terminus of this section is on Smoky Creek Road. To reach it from the Norma Road trailhead, drive south on Norma Road 2.2 miles to Hembree’s Grocery. Turn right just after Hembree’s onto paved Smoky Creek Road. Proceed a total of 4.6 miles, passing the valleys of Bowling Branch and Lowe Branch on the right, to the Cumberland Trail crossing at Cave Branch. The trailhead is on the right, with parking for several cars. (The village of Hembree is another 1.3 miles; if you reach it, you’ve gone too far.)
Campsites; Water Availability
There are no designated backcountry campsites on this section. However, backpackers who know and practice Leave No Trace principles may consider camping at the flat area just south of Bowling Town Road, Mile 5.4. Please treat all drinking water, and be aware that creeks on this section may be dry between June and October.
Miles N to S (Miles S to N) Trail Feature
Mile 0.0 (9.8) Norma Road Trailhead
Leave the trailhead heading west, proceed gently downhill and cross the railroad tracks, then turn left onto a gravel road. Follow it a short distance to the concrete bridge across the New River, elevation 1,240 feet.
Mile 0.2 (9.6) Concrete Bridge over New River
After crossing the New River, follow the road to the trail junction on the right. Proceed upstream roughly parallel to the road, gaining elevation via three switchbacks. Cross a small creek on a log bridge and, in another 1/3 mile, cross a ravine on a larger bridge.
Mile 0.6 (9.2) Log Bridge over Small Ravine
Continuing upstream, cross two gravel roads, then descend a set of terraced steps and cross an old dirt road. Begin to head up the Lick Creek watershed and arrive at the Lower Lick Creek Bridge.
Mile 1.0 (8.8) Lower Lick Creek Bridge
Cross the bridge and ascend gradually on river right of Lick Creek.
Mile 1.5 (8.3) Upper Lick Creek Bridge
Note the small waterfall while crossing the bridge. Proceed to an old logging road and veer left. Ascend very gradually through a pleasant forest along river left of Lick Creek. Arrive at a gravel road.
Mile 2.0 (7.8) Gravel Road
Turn left and follow the road for 50 yards to a junction with trail on the right. The trail soon merges with a dirt road. Continue upstream, merge with a gravel road and, after 70 yards, leave the gravel to the left. Proceed upstream on trail parallel to the road.
Mile 2.4 (7.4) Old Logging Road
Cross an old logging road. Below, a staging area for logging is visible. Ascend a moderate grade through two sharp left turns, then on sidehill trail through pleasant hardwood forest. After a series of tight switchbacks, reach the summit ridge of Lawson Mountain, elevation ~2,404 feet.
Mile 3.2 (6.6) Summit Ridge of Lawson Mountain
An old road extends over two miles along the top of the mountain, an area leveled by coal mining but now recovering. An overlook lies about 3/4 mile to the right, on the side of Lick Creek Mountain. From here one has an expansive view eastward over the New River valley and mountains beyond. To continue on the trail, turn left at the junction and follow blazed posts for one mile along the road as far as a signpost on the left.
Mile 4.2 (5.6) Junction, Trail & Road
Turn left off the road onto trail built upon mine tailings, elevation 2,583 feet. This area is now a pleasant field, probably used by wildlife. After 0.1 mile, re-enter the woods on sidehill trail, then descend steeply via switchbacks toward the valley of Bowling Branch. The descent moderates after crossing an old logging road. After tunneling through a laurel thicket and passing a beaver pond on the left, arrive at gravel Bowling Town Road, elevation 1,755 feet.
Mile 5.1 (4.7) East Junction, Trail & Bowling Town Road
Turn right and begin a gradual ascent westward on the road. Pass a beaver pond on the right and a faint old road on the left. After 0.3 miles, turn left off the road onto trail.
Mile 5.4 (4.4) West Junction, Trail & Bowling Town Road
Immediately cross a small creek and continue over nearly level trail through a pleasant forest of hemlock with abundant mountain laurel. Approach a larger creek on the left, then veer away from it toward the west through a forest of maple, poplar, and beech. Approach another creek on the right just before turning left and beginning the ascent of the ridge dividing the Bowling Branch and Cave Branch watersheds.
Mile 5.8 (4.0) Creek and Break in Grade
Ascend, steeply in places, on sidehill trail via curving turns and switchbacks. Cross three small creeks on large stepping stones. The forest is dominated by maple, and in many places the slope is covered with ferns. Curve to the right around a huge, isolated boulder whose flat top supports a thriving plant community.
Mile 6.1 (3.7) Verdant Boulder
The moderate-to-steep uphill grade continues for another1/2 mile, with several more large, isolated boulders that evidently tumbled from the rocky spine of the ridge above. After two more creek crossings, pass directly beneath the spine and reach the top of the ridge, elevation 2,567 feet.
Mile 6.6 (3.2) Northwest End of Ridge Traverse
The view of the rocks to the northwest is impressive, as are the autumn colors. Begin a pleasant traverse eastward along the ridge. Soon arrive beneath a huge boulder with a slightly smaller one on top.
Mile 6.7 (3.1) Stacked Boulders
Continue along the ridge for another 1/2 mile with little change in elevation. Arrive at the southeast end of the traverse, elevation 2,626 feet.
Mile 7.2 (2.6) Southeast End of Ridge Traverse
Turn right and begin the descent south into the valley of Cave Branch via switchbacks and curving turns. The grade is often steep, especially near the top, then moderates, affording opportunity to enjoy the forest dominated by large maple, poplar, and beech. Arrive at an overlook of a deep ravine with a seasonal waterfall.
Mile 7.8 (2.0) Deep Ravine with Waterfall
Continue descending, steeply in places. Cross an old log skidding route that heads straight down the fall line. A 10-step rock staircase marks a break in the overall grade. Proceed above and roughly parallel to Cave Branch through a nice stand of hemlocks. An old logging road crosses the trail and descends to join another along Cave Branch which is rough, muddy, and often flooded in places.
Mile 8.3 (1.5) Old Logging Road
Cross a seasonal creek on large stepping stones. Continue over fairly level but rocky terrain covered with ferns. Veer left to the head of a ravine with a small waterfall, follow a sinuous path through huge boulders, then descend moderately to join the old road along Cave Branch.
Mile 8.7 (1.1) Upper Junction, Trail & Cave Branch Road
Turn left and walk 282 yards to a set of steps on the left.
Mile 8.8 (1.0) Lower Junction, Trail & Cave Branch Road
Climb the steps and continue above and roughly parallel to Cave Branch. Ascend and descend numerous times over the next 0.6 mile. Finally, reach the Cave Branch road again.
Mile 9.4 (0.4) Cave Branch Crossing
Turn left onto the road. After 63 yards leave the road on the right and carefully cross the stream on large flat rocks. Ascend gradually, then proceed on fairly level sidehill trail through a mixed forest containing some very large, healthy hemlocks. With the creek visible below, this is a particularly attractive stretch. Cross an ATV road running down the fall line, descend a 6-rock staircase, and enter a clearing.
Mile 9.8 (0.0) Smoky Creek Road Trailhead
This is also the northern terminus of Section 1 of the New River Segment--the Arch Mountain Section--which begins across Smoky Creek Road.
